Deciphering Melbourne Cup Week Dress Codes

WITH 30 Group One races held across Melbourne and Sydney during the Spring Racing Carnival there are plenty of chances to frock up. But most fashionistas save their A-game for Flemington’s big four – Derby, Melbourne Cup, Oaks and Stakes. Each of the days has its own traditions and expressing them through fashion is all part of the fun.

Derby Day – make it monochrome

The Derby is the oldest classic race on the Victorian calendar – it was first contested in 1855, six years before the Melbourne Cup. Black and white reigns supreme and this is not the time to break with tradition. That doesn’t mean you can’t embrace modern trends. Pair a classic white lace dress with black headpiece, shoes and box clutch. Or adopt a minimalist look with an asymmetrical neckline. A bold one-shoulder dress in black or white works well with a wide brimmed hat and metallic accessories. There’s not a lot of wriggle room for the blokes. Black suit, white shirt, black tie (no bow) white pocket chief and black shoes is the uniform. A grey or charcoal suit would also pass but keep any other colour for later in the week. The perfect finishing touch is a blue cornflower in the lapel – the day’s signature flower.

Melbourne Cup – go big or go home

This is the race that stops a nation so there’s no room for wallflowers. Today is the day to bring the colour, the brighter and bolder the better. Vibrant pinks and reds are popular this season and prints also play well. Forget the fascinator and don a hat or dramatic headpiece instead. Opt for a piece that matches the colour of your outfit or something metallic. Men are also encouraged to flex their fashion muscle. While elegance is always the goal, there is no real dress code on this day, so now is the time to debut that royal blue suit or slip a loud checked shirt under a grey suit. Add a yellow rose and you’re good to go.

Oaks Day – pretty and polished

It’s called Ladies Day so you need to dress like one. Romantic florals, pastel pleats and delicate lace are the order of the day. A mid-length embroidered lace dress over a nude slip that finishes above the knee is on trend, while maintaining the feminine brief. Complete your Oaks Day look with a floral crown created from fresh blooms or simple headbands. The gents should follow the ladies’ lead with florals and pastels which work well with the day’s signature flower – the pink rose. Accessorise with a pocket square and tie with hints of florals, stripes, plaid or spots.

Stakes Day – let the offspring shine

The final day of Cup Week at Flemington is the most relaxed of the four meetings. Classic chic is the perfect look to bring to the garden party atmosphere. Children (suitably dressed of course!) are also encouraged, with the event also focussing on family. Women, especially those chasing after offspring, can achieve that relaxed glamour with a casual pants suit or a pair of culottes teamed with bodysuit and capelet. There’s also a more casual approach to millinery with raffia straw boaters and wide-brimmed hats. Dads can leave the suit in the cupboard for Monday and wear a navy sports blazer instead – which contrasts beautifully with the day’s signature red rose – and tan pants. They can still have some fun with colour by adding a bold shirt and tie. It’s also the day to make a statement with a fedora.

Syncing Your Handbag and Headwear for Spring Racing Carnival

WHETHER it’s a straw boater with grosgrain ribbon, simple metallic headband or elaborate floral crown created from fresh blooms, millinery is a must trackside.

It’s a chance to embrace tradition, express yourself and take your inner show pony for a trot. Melbourne racegoers don’t hold back when it comes to millinery.

In 2015 we bought 75, 000 hats and fascinators for Cup week alone. A further 30,000 handbags were sold in Victoria to women planning to debut their new accessory at the races last year.

David Jones head millinery buyer Sarah Clancy told News Corp that crown-style headbands in metallics and leather, bohemian style florals and veiling are popular this year. Navy is also having a moment.

“Black has always been our strongest colour and people are looking for something a little softer,” she said.

She said the preferred order of shopping is dress, hat, bag, and shoes.

Floral dresses work well with a headpiece in one colour picked from the print that is then replicated through the bag and other accessories.

“Tonal always looks beautiful. It’s always a classy, chic look.”

Traditionalists often advised against buying your hat first. But Clancy said if you find a headpiece that fits well, suits your face and makes you feel amazing don’t let the fact you don’t have a thing to wear with it put you off!

This strategy works particularly well if the headpiece has bold colours, she said.

When matching a dress to a hat the silhouette is key.

“If they have chosen a hat in a dark colour, they would choose a more classic silhouette, something geometric, maybe not floral, elements of suiting,” Clancy said.

“Headbands work better with a softer flowing frock.”

There are some rules that should never be broken.

Clancy said fascinators are always worn over the left eye and hair should always be worn up to allow the piece to sit properly.

Most stylists agree that when it comes to pulling an outfit together the most obvious choice is to go with the same colour for your shoes, hat and bag.

This works especially well for Derby Day’s black and white dress code.

A white dress paired with black shoes and accessories looks polished and is easy to pull together – we all have at least one pair of black heels and a decent black bag in the wardrobe.

The other days on the spring racing calendar usually call for colour, but that doesn’t mean you have to have a rainbow of accessories at hand.

A nude shoe and bag work with just about any shade and can be paired with headwear in neutral tones.

Until recently the “matchy matchy” look was considered pretty old school, especially on the runway.

But the fashion wheel has come full circle and the recent spring fashion shows featured a lot of matching accessories, bags and shoes.

Perfectionists also consider the hardware on their bags and ensure that it doesn’t clash with their jewellery or buckles on their shoes.

If you decide to buy a new bag for the races a small shoulder strap bag is your best bet.

It will hold your essentials – lippie, phone, wallet, keys, band-aids and sunnies – and leave your hands free for champagne and race book. Opting for a neutral tone in beige, grey or black will increase its versatility.